Fruit Full, art and science

UK NATIONAL FRUIT COLLECTION in Kent
NEW PARK FARM in Kent
WILKIN & SONS FARM in Essex

In our human history, the development of agriculture started about 10 to 12 thousand years ago. The process was quite rapid and is sometimes described as the Neolithic Revolution. From gatherers and hunters, we became farmers, first with the domestication of animals and a nomadic lifestyle, followed by village settlements and the first plant crops.

The earliest archeological evidence of agriculture has been found in Mesopotamia, a region between modern Turkey and Saudi Arabia which includes Iraq, where the Tigris and Euphrates create a major river system. This was followed by developments in the valleys of the Nile (Egypt) and Indus (Pakistan). Later developments took place in China, Central America and Africa.

With agriculture came the practice of plant breeding: varieties with the desired characteristics are interbred with each other or crossed with wild species in order to improve the crop quality or resistance to diseases, for example. The early crops were mostly annual or biennial plants, such as cereals, pulses and vegetables. These plants produce a new generation from seeds every year or two. Over millennia and thousands of generations later, their breeding has led to huge genetic differences in the modern varieties we eat, compared to the original species. For example, vegetables such as cabbages - broccoli, Brussels sprouts, red cabbage, cauliflower, etc - all come from one wild plant.

Some archeologists think that a second Neolithic Revolution took place during the Bronze Age, between 6000 and 3000 BC. This coincided with the beginning of fruit cultivation. Many fruits grow on trees. These trees take a long time to mature and produce their first fruits, and they are often long lived, some cropping well for over a hundred years. Their successful cultivation requires a long-term commitment to one piece of land.

By transforming that land into an orchard, a strong bond is created between the farmer, the land and its locality. Thus, the development of fruit culture may have led to humans embracing the concept of territoriality for the first time and the creation of the first towns.

The early fruit cultivation in Mesopotamia included dates, olives, grapes, figs and pomegranates. They were later followed by apples, pears, quinces and medlars which came from Central Asia and Persia. Lemons followed from Asia and stone fruits (almonds, apricots, cherries, peaches and plums) from Europe and Asia. Later on, in the 15th and 16th centuries, American fruits such as the pineapple, cacao, papaya, tomato, pepper and strawberries, all reached Europe, Asia and Africa, whilst the East Asian banana and mango started being grown in America.

For a new fruit tree variety to be produced, it must be grown from seeds over several generations. It takes a few years for a tree seedling to be mature enough to produce its first seeds and the cross-fertilisation process must be repeated several times before a successful variety emerges with good characteristics. The breeding process is therefore slow. As a result, the fruits varieties we eat today are more closely related to their wild ancestors, compared to those of cereals and vegetables.

We may not have been the only ones breeding fruits varieties over the millennia. Other animals probably contributed to the process. For example, the local population of bears in Kazakhstan, where apples originally come from, may have been responsible for the breeding of larger sized apples, by selecting and eating only the biggest fruits, and dispersing their seeds. The resulting seedlings then bred with each other over thousands of years to produce the large fruits we are familiar with now.

For an overview of this art and science project, go to: Fruit Full home page

To discover the five fruits celebrated here, go to these pages:

Fruits 1 (plums and cherries), Fruits 2 (raspberries, quinces and mulberries)

Another page presents two different ways of preserving fruits: Two Jams

You can download the following texts, as pdf documents:

Fruits Talk is about fruits and the origins of fruit farming.

Five Fruits is a longer text about the five fruits featured.

This page presents three very different British fruit farms: the National Fruit Collection in Faversham, Kent; New Park Farm, also in Kent, and the farm of Wilkin & Sons, preserves makers in Tiptree, Essex.

 

As part of the project, two focus groups were set up to explore nutrition topics related to sugar. One group, based at the University of Reading, included older participants. Another group, at the University of Oxford, had younger participants.

Here, the Reading group explores what they ate as children and what they eat now:


play the above interview in a new tab

black mulberry

Tiptree: packing cherries

Tiptree: packing cherries

black mulberry

quince on windowsill

quince on windowsill

Groombridge: raspberry roots

Groombridge: raspberry roots

Tiptree: pruning cherries

Tiptree: pruning cherries

Brogdale: cherry trials

Brogdale: cherry trials


For this project, I spent time photographing and learning how fruits are grown at three UK farms, two in Kent and one in Essex. Each one is very different in its purpose and size:

The National Fruit Collection in Faversham, Kent, is owned by the UK Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) and is one of the largest fruit collections in the world.

New Park Farm in Groombridge, near Tunbridge Wells, Kent, is a small farm which sells its produce locally through its own shop and at farmers markets.

Wilkin & Sons, the preserve makers at Tiptree in Essex, have grown fruits for nearly 300 years on 850 acres. The fruits are processed in the company’s factory for preserves and liquors, as well as being sold as fresh fruits to supermarkets.


farm images
farm images


Fruit trees must be protected from pests, diseases and inclement weather such as strong winds and frost pockets. Tall hedges often surround orchards for this reason, here above at the National Fruit Collection.

The small images include polytunnels being built at Wilkin & Sons.



The other background image shows a large reservoir at Wilkin & Sons: most fruits grown commercially require irrigation.

Pheromone traps help farmers to monitor the types and numbers of pests, so that the right treatments can be applied. At New Park Farm, a bird of prey kite flies over the trees from a pole, to deter pigeons who love eating the fruits.


polytunnels


Some fruits, when sold as fresh fruits, such as raspberries, strawberries and cherries, are often grown under polytunnels. They will ripen earlier and can be better protected from pests, diseases and the damage caused by rain and hail storms.

Here you can see the frames of polytunnels being built on the Wilkin & Sons farm. They will be used for growing strawberries.

The other image shows the cherry orchards in winter, with the covers protecting them folded away. Cherry trees suffer if left covered all year round, unlike raspberries and strawberries.


Tiptree: building polytunnels

Tiptree: building polytunnels

Tiptree: polytunnel worker

Tiptree: polytunnel worker


Here are cherry, plum and quince orchards, also mulberry trees being pruned at Wilkin & Sons.

At New Park Farm, chickens are kept under the cherry trees. The shade of the trees provide them with an ideal place to roam and they have a hut at the end of the field to lay their eggs. Once the fruits start growing, the chickens are removed, otherwise they would eat them, just like pigeons do.

Tiptree: pruning mulberries

Tiptree: pruning mulberries

Groombridge: chickens
cherry, plum and quinces
Groombridge: in the farm

Groombridge: in the farm

Groombridge: planting raspberries

Groombridge: planting raspberries


Above, at New Park Farm, a worker is planting raspberry canes in a polytunnel. They are grown tied to wires to keep them upright and each pot is connected to an irrigation system.

The other image includes an orchard ladder identical to the one used in my Sugar Spell art installation.



Fruit trees in commercial orchards are planted close together, tied to wires. They are grown on restricting rootstock to keep them small and their fruits more easily harvested. They are also pruned to optimise how much fruits they produce.

This intensive type of cultivation means that the trees are not as long lived as those grown in traditional orchards, where the trees are bigger and further apart.


orchards training systems

orchards training systems


Chemical treatment is a regular activity on commercial farms.

Here at New Park Farm, the farmer is spraying against plum moth.

Groombridge: spraying plum trees

Groombridge: spraying plum trees

Groombridge: spraying plum trees

Groombridge: spraying plum trees


All three farms I visited apply the principles of integrated management against pests & diseases.

These use a combination of methods including barrier methods such as netting, biological control (e.g. pests predators), keeping the plants healthy with feeding and watering, as well as chemical control.

Organic growing methods should be encouraged but this remains a minority market: not all of us can afford to buy organic fruits, which cost more to produce. How could we change the situation?


Groombridge: farm shop

Groombridge: farm shop

Tiptree: fruit pickers

Tiptree: fruit pickers


Some work on farms is required all year round, some is seasonal.

Above are images of the farm shop at New Park Farm, which sells its own produce and that of other local farmers and traders.

At Wilkin & Sons, an important part of the work is seasonal, particularly picking the fruits and packing them for the supermarkets.



Most seasonal workers on the farm come from Bulgaria. They often return every year, like in the past when Londoners went hop and fruit picking every summer.

Without these foreign workers, the UK agricultural industry would collapse.


Tiptree: fruit picker

Tiptree: fruit picker

Tiptree: fruit picker

Tiptree: fruit picker

Tiptree: fruit picker

Tiptree: fruit picker

Tiptree: picking mulberries

Tiptree: picking mulberries

Groombridge: chickens

Groombridge: chickens


Picking and packing delicate fruits like cherries and raspberries requires careful handling and a lot of concentration to select only the best fruits.

The work can also be very messy, as seen above when picking mulberries at Wilkin & Sons.



Below are images of the packing house at Wilkin & Sons. This is where fresh fruits are prepared and packed to be sent to supermarkets.

Again, the work here is seasonal and done by Bulgarian workers.


Tiptree: in the packing house

Tiptree: in the packing house

Tiptree: in the packing house

Tiptree: in the packing house

Tiptree: in the packing house

Tiptree: in the packing house


Can I tempt you with some cherries? Yes please!

How can we make eating fresh fruits more attractive?

They are at their best when fully ripe but this does not work well with our food production and distribution methods. Many fruits are picked unripe or chosen for their naturally long shelf life, always at the detriment of their taste.

Also, in my view, fruits and vegetables should be much more affordable but not at the detriment of farmers: call it a fruit subsidy instead of a meat one.

In themselves, fresh fruits are not expensive to buy but they cannot compete with the treats and deserts full of fat and sugar which are now available everywhere.


cherries

cherries


The National Fruit Collection, on Brogdale Farm, Faversham, Kent, UK.


Brogdale: cherry collection

Brogdale: cherry collection

Brogdale: cherries and quinces

Brogdale: cherries and quinces


The National Fruit Collection is one of the largest fruit collections in the world, with over 3500 cultivars of apples, pears, plums, cherries, quinces, soft fruits, vine and cob nuts.

The collection is managed by the University of Reading, together with the Fruit Advisory Services Team (FAST) who provides advice and testing services to commercial fruit growers.

The collection is a worldwide gene bank for fruits from temperate regions, ensuring that the cultivars are kept alive for breeding and future use, and to enable research into their unique characteristics.

Here are the cherry and quince collection orchards.



When the orchards become too old, every cultivar must be propagated and a new collection created. You can see a close-up of a cherry bud graft, propagated the summer before.

Below is the nursery for a new cherry collection.

Also below are the remains of an apricot tree which had to be grubbed because of ill health.

Brogdale: propagating cherries
Brogdale: grubbed apricot
Brogdale: cherry bud graft

Brogdale: cherry bud graft

Brogdale: collecting scions
Brogdale: collections administration

Brogdale: gathering data


An important work of the National Fruit Collection is to provide propagation material for breeders, growers and anyone who is looking to plant a particular cultivar. Here a curator is assembling material for orders to be sent.

Young shoots of the chosen cultivars (called scions) are harvested and then grafted onto a rootstock which will control their vigour.

Our very own small fruit garden in Cambridge consists of cultivars that were chosen from the National Collection. They were grafted and grown at Brogdale, ready to be picked up a year later.



Looking after the Collection involves checking a lot of scientific data about the exact identity of each cultivar and its provenance.

For example, after genetic testing, some cultivars with different names are found to be identical and their record must be updated.

When a cultivar is used as part of research or for other activity within the Collection, its specimens in the orchard are marked with ribbons of different colours, to identify them easily in the field.



Brogdale Farm is the home of the National Fruit Collection, as well as FAST, the Fruit Advisory Services Team.

FAST provides independent professional advice and technical support to fruit growers, helping them to select the best cultivars, growing methods and pest & disease control, for example.



Day to day work on the farm involves a lot of maintenance and building new structures, such as irrigation systems and polytunnels.

At the National Fruit Collection, each member of the team has many responsibilities and not one day is the same.


Brogdale: building an irrigation system
Brogdale: polytunnel maintenance

Brogdale: polytunnel maintenance

Brogdale: cold stores

Brogdale: cold stores


At FAST, many trials are undertaken on behalf of growers, including new systems of cultivation and pruning. Here are featured plums and cherries grown on trials.

An important work at FAST is the testing of soils, which is undertaken regularly for commercial farms to assess the levels of nutrients and soil pathogens.

The fertility of soil is fundamental for the health of crops. It is currently in decline on a worldwide scale, which is a worrying problem.


Brogdale: a soil sample

Brogdale: a soil sample

Brogdale: work at FAST

Brogdale: work at FAST


FAST offers growers advice on crop nutrition. Soil, leaf and fruit samples are tested in its own chemistry laboratory.

Fruits are tested for their sugar content, their structure and their taste. Chemical analysis then takes place to determine the composition of compounds within their cells and to measure the amounts.


When new treatment methods are being tested, the crop must be checked for possible damage. The process involves someone looking at each fruit individually.

All the fruits featured on the image above are apples.


Brogdale: in the chemistry lab

Brogdale: in the chemistry lab

Brogdale: testing apples

Brogdale: testing apples

Brogdale: testing apples

Brogdale: testing apples

Brogdale: in the chemistry lab

Brogdale: in the chemistry lab

new quince leaves

new quince leaves

raspberry canes

raspberry canes

cherry in the making

cherry in the making

cherry buds

cherry buds

Fruit Full, the exhibition, is the identical twin of this project’s website, with one major, fundamental difference: You can enjoy it in a real, physical space, surrounded by objects which are bigger than yourself and speak directly to you. Each one is unique and there to welcome you in person.

You can meet the fruits, the stars of the show, in the flesh, with their personalities filling up the space and following you around.

You can sit down and learn about the history of sugar and the work of nutrition scientists from books lovingly hand made by the artist. There, if you wish, you can also discover the work of fruit farmers through the seasons.

You can spend time eavesdropping on a focus group chatting about what people ate as children, all these years ago, whilst you walk around the installations, pondering over their meaning, wanting to touch them but knowing you shouldn’t.

And hopefully, by the end, you will understand why it is that most of us like sugar so much. But most of all, you will know that seeing art in the flesh, in a real space, will always win over dipping fleetingly into a webpage...

Fruit Full was due to be exhibited in several venues during 2020 and 2021, including in museums, art galleries and hospitals. Most shows were cancelled because of the coronavirus pandemic. If you are a venue and are interested in the project, please contact us at admin@artsciencefruitfull.uk.

The two images below show the exhibition at the Museum of East Anglian Life in Stowmarket, Suffolk, UK.

Museum of East Anglian Life

Museum of East Anglian Life

Museum of East Anglian Life

Museum of East Anglian Life

Françoise Sergy lives in London. She also spends a lot of time in Cambridge, UK, where her partner lives, and in the Jura mountains of Switzerland, the country she is originally from. She is both an artist and a gardener. For many years she worked as a dance and performance artist, developing her own practice through the prism of feminist aesthetics. Photography has always played an important role in her work.

At the age of 40 she fell in love with plants and trained as a gardener. Plants are now her main focus. Working part-time as an artist means that her projects take a long time to come to fruition but she doesn’t mind. She enjoys the scientific grounding horticulture has given her, using it as another tool in her creative process. Her aim is to work with scientists to reveal how important plants are in our everyday life, even if we are not aware of this, and to celebrate them.

Fruit Full was conceived, researched and produced by artist Françoise Sergy, in partnership with scientists and fruit growers.

The exhibition is looking for venues: For more information, please contact the project at: admin@artsciencefruitfull.uk

All the images on this page are available as prints: £40 / €50 for an A4 print, £50 / €65 for an A3 print (plus postage costs). To order, please contact the artist at admin@artsciencefruitfull.uk

Françoise Sergy has her own website with information about her past and current artwork: www.francoisesergy.uk

Links to the project’s partners and thanks to everyone involved are on the Links Page